INDIGO DYEING : Questions & Answers

Some of the questions on this page are specific to indigo dyeing using our Indigo & Shibori Natural Dye Kit, but many are applicable to indigo dyeing more broadly!

Your dye kit comes complete with a load of supplies and materials that you can use to make designs on fabrics. Some parts of the process are complex and we may not have had room in the printed instructions included to go in depth.

If you have a question that has not yet been answered to your satisfaction, ask away!

Indigo & Shibori Natural Dye Kit
$56.00

This natural indigo dye kit is packed with everything you need to create a bundle of permanent, dyed patterns on any plant-based fabric. We’ve gathered the finest quality ingredients and supplies for you: the beginner to intermediate dyer. May this kit inspire and challenge you to create new, beautiful work. Share your results with us online at www.naturaldyekits.com and enjoy!

THIS KIT INCLUDES:
Naturally derived indigo pigment
All necessary activation and setting agents
Protective gloves
A blank cotton gauze bandana
Wood clamps and cotton cord
Illustrated instructions

YOU WILL NEED:
Two five gallon buckets: one for dyeing, one for rinsing
A long mixing stick
Hot water

TIPS & INFO:
For best results dye small pieces of natural fabric, or lightweight natural fabrics with open weave structure.
Dyes up to 5 lbs of fabric or a dozen garments depending on coverage and shade.
Prep your vat then wait 24 hours for it to mature before dyeing.
Vat stays viable for weeks, just stir and revisit.

WARNING: This kit contains Indigotin, Calcium Hydroxide, Iron Sulfate and Citric Acid which can be harmful if used improperly! Follow all instructions carefully.
Adult supervision required.
Conforms to ASTM D-4236
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.

Access FAQs, browse tutorials on dyeing patterns and share your work at www.naturaldyekits.com.

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USE KEYWORDS TO SEARCH FOR ANSWERS TO YOUR QUESTIONS

The following is an index list of each Question and Answer title, click on the title to read the corresponding Q&A, or simply use search terms in the search box above to see if your question has been answered!

Graham Keegan Graham Keegan

Starting Indigo Seeds Indoors Versus Outdoors

Q: I have some indigo seeds and I cannot find any information about starting them outdoors. Do I have to soak and start indoors? I live in northern California and there is no frost and it is nice and sunny. Can I plant them outdoors this week?

A: I'd recommend starting the seeds indoors and keeping a tight eye on the water levels (DO NOT LET THE SEEDLINGS DRY OUT).

I've never directly sown the seeds outdoors but that could work as well, as long as you maintain good moist soil. The overnight soak will definitely help to kick-start things. I've found that pill-bugs LOVE to eat the young leaves so be wary of that and set some traps for them if you can. Over-plant, then you'll want to thin to about 10"-12" on center for your final density of plants.

Here in Los Angeles my plants volunteer from fallen seed of last year's crop. My plants start to grow in December when the rains return and they are almost ready for the first harvest of leaves in May. I think you could get onto a similar cycle up there as long as you never get frost.

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Graham Keegan Graham Keegan

When to Plant Indigo Seeds

Q: I have seen in many articles that that Indigo Persicaria Tinctoria is sensitive to frost. When should I plant my indigo seeds?

A: I live in Los Angeles and I germinate my indigo seeds in late December/January under a grow-light and transplant in February. However there is NO frost in Los Angeles. If there is even a tiny frost, it will kill the plants back to the root (or thick stems if the plant is more mature). I'd recommend waiting to transplant until there is zero chance of a frost. Seeds could be planted 6-8 weeks before transplant.

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Graham Keegan Graham Keegan

Indigo Seed Propagation

Q: I grew some indigo plants, can you tell me how to propagate seeds from my plants?

A: In Los Angeles I’ll start harvesting seeds by the middle of July, but if you are in a colder climate like the northeast, they don’t typically mature until around Thanksgiving.  I do this by rooting any stems that are flowering in water indoors and letting them complete their cycle out of the soil, which they’re surprisingly happy to do.

I trim my seed bearing stalks from plants as the seeds mature and bundle them and invert them and hang them to dry.  Birds and mice love to eat the seeds so make sure to dry and store them out of reach!

Once the stalk is crispy, I will stomp or hand crush all the seed groups and begin sieveing things to remove leaves and stems and dried flower bits. I then roll the seeds between leather sheets to strip them clean, though this is not necessary for germination. I’ll then wind winnow what remains to separate the lighter and immature seed from the bulky growers!  I germinate in bulk trays and thin/transplant as needed. 

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